Finally, screw the small piece of plywood attached to the lamp base to these two blocks.Screw these to the large base panel on either side of the hole you drilled in step one, leaving room for the lamp base. Before mounting it, I chiseled a small groove in the plywood to provide clearance for the lamp's power cord. Drill holes for the lamp's mounting screws through this piece of plywood, and mount the lamp base to it.Measure the distance between the two nuts in the base of the lamp, and transfer this distance to a 1.5" x 3" piece of plywood.Use a forstner or spade bit to drill a hole large enough for the lamp base through the side of the base panel.If you're using similar lamps, follow the directions below to mount each lamp, otherwise, improvise a mount that works for you. The lights are designed to screw into a weighted base, and I was able to re-use those screw mounts to attach the lamps to the base panel. The specific ones I used were available for $10 each from my local IKEA. I used inexpensive LED lamps for the lighting. You can also fill any small imperfections and knots in the plywood surface at this point. I like to apply a thick coat of wood putty that's slightly raised above the surface, then sand it flat later. Use wood putty to cover all the screws.In my case, I repaired the damage with wood putty before painting the surface. I recommend clamping a piece of scrap plywood to the surface of the panel before making this cut, to prevent this from happening. I did this with a 'clean cut' blade on my jig saw, but you'll notice there was still significant tear-out on the plywood surface. Cut the corner notch flush with the 2x2s.Glue and screw the 2x2 section to the panel, countersinking the holes so that the screws lie slightly below the surface of the plywood.Cut the pine 2x2 sections, cutting one short by 1.5" (the true dimension of the 2x2) to leave one of the corners empty.I measured the inside of the suitcase, leaving a few inches of space around the edges to determine the size of my panel, but you should choose a size that works for your application. To construct the panel, first cut the plywood into a rectangle of the appropriate size.The 2x2's help keep the panel rigid and provide an interior space to mount electronics later. It has a 1.5" square cut out at one corner where the vertical camera arm will fit. The base panel is built from pine 2x2's and 1/4" plywood. ![]() This instructable will cover the construction of the animation station, the suitcase modifications, as well as the open source software I used to create the short test video above. The camera arm can be quickly detached, and the entire assembly can be stowed securely in a modified suitcase. An HD video camera is mounted at the end of a rigid arm, which extends over the panel. Two lamps are mounted to the panel on flexible goosenecks, which illuminate the surface of the panel. ![]() The Animation Station is a rigid wooden panel, painted matte black. It's entirely possible to make stop motion animations without a device like this, and using a tripod with a DSLR can give you much more flexibility - but having a purpose built device that enforces limits on how the video is shot is a great way to encourage creativity in the content produced. This was a fun weekend build, and doesn't require much in the way of specialized tooling or difficult techniques. ![]() She'd seen a large 'animation station' exhibit at the San Francisco Exploratorium, and wanted a something similar that she could travel with. I built this for a friend, who works with youth creating digital media.
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